Chicken Feet & Clam Chowdah

Our trip to Baltimore this spring, where we visited the Polish district of Fells Point, left us craving Slavic fare. We loved the smoky, flavorful kielbasa made by the Krakus Deli, so we were happy to discover a similar place right in our own hometown: the Halgo Deli on Alston Road.

We almost drove right past the unassuming deli, which resides in a cute green contemporary building. Once inside, it was déjà vu: the smell of kielbasa in the air, and sacks and boxes of E. Wedel chocolate on the shelves. We hit up the charcuterie section first, where the friendly proprietor shaved off samples of meats for us to try. There was ozorki, or jellied tongue: meaty, with a delightfully unctuous mouthfeel; headcheese, pleasantly garlicy and fatty; kielbasa, smoky and salty; and much more that we didn’t sample. The kielbasa was even better accompanied by sharp Polish mustard that carried a tinge of horseradish. 

We got lunch to go from the deli: two oversized paninis stuffed with generous amounts of ham and bacon, served with Polish cheese, mustard, mayo, lettuce, and tomato. Every ingredient was quality (okay, maybe not the jarred pickle, but everything else). They cost $6.85 apiece but kept us both full until a 9 o’clock supper.

Dinner that night was more Halgo goodies: kielbasa, ozorki, and mushroom pierogies. Halgo’s carries pierogies from Kasia’s, a small Chicago manufacturer, and, let me tell you, they are sensational. The dough is light and the filling restaurant-quality, which, in the case of the mushroom variety, means strongly flavored, umami-rich, savory wild mushrooms. 

Halgo also offers chrusciki—bow-tie-shaped cookies—and sweets baked by the woman who co-owns the shop with her husband. We didn’t try them as we’re still well-stocked with leftover Halloween candy, but they looked delicious.

We’re thrilled to find a local place where we can get our Polish food fix.